Monday, August 18, 2008

Smart Honeymoon - Ten Dollar-Stretching Destinations


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1. THAILAND
This Asian hot spot may be halfway around the globe, but it's worth the journey. With ancient temples and exotic cuisine, this is one of Asia's most alluring countries - and one of its most affordable. Where elase can you get a beach massage for $8?

Perfect itinerary: An ideal Thai journey would take two weeks, but you can see the highlights in eight days. Start in Bangkok. Many dismiss it as a jumping-off point - but from massage lessons at Wat Pho temple to shopping in the night bazaar, there's more than enough to justify three days. Next stop: the historic capital of Chiang Mai an hour's flight north. Stay three days, and don't miss the view from the mountain-top Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep temple. From there, Phuket is a two-hour flight. There's not a lot to do beyond snorkeling and sunning - and that's the point. In two days you'll see why this glamorous isle attracts surfers and supermodels.

Where to stay: Happily, top hotels here go for less than $400 a night. In Bangkok, choose the Peninsula, where rooms overlook the Chao Phraya river. Doubles from $375 (year-round), 866-382-8388; bangkok.peninsula.com. A posh addition to Chiang Mai, the DusitD2 appeals to couples with fashion sense. Doubles from $118 (low season);011-66-53-999-999; dusit.com. Phuket is known for pricey, stylish resorts, so Indigo Pearl, winner of several design awards, is a find. Doubles from $121 (low season); 011-66-76-327-006; indigo-pearl.com.

Nice surprise: Although Phuket is best known for its beaches, the wildlife-filled jungles are worth exploring too. Our pick for transportation? Skip the Land Rover in favor of an unforgettable elephant ride.

2. PORTUGAL
Portugal's Alentejo region, a two-hour drive south of Lisbon, is a true gem; when combined with a few days in the capital itself, it makes for the perfect mix of city and country. Made up of national parkland, the Alentejo is quiet as can be: the whitewashed villages are a throwback to simpler days - no fast-food joints, no high-rises. Cows graze the fields overlooking the beaches where the fishermen cast their lines for the sea bream you'll have for dinner.

Perfect itinerary: Fly into Lisbon and spend a few days exploring one of the most appealing (and least expensive) old cities in Europe - walk the medievel streets of the Alfama, ride the trams, and finish one day at the rooftop bar at Bairro Alto Hotel overlooking the Tagus River. The next morning, take the train to Sintra and one of Europe's most eccentric castles, Palacio da Pena. Then rent a car and join the hipsters heading to the Alentejo, known for a spectacular coastline - golden sand and black basalt cliffs - and fabulous food. Have a glass of port at a clifftop cafe, then brave the heart-pumping descent down a beach escarpment (it's amazing what you can do in flip-flops!) to your own stretch of sand.

Where to stay: The Heritage Ave Liberdade's comfortable, smart rooms overlook the palm trees of a grand 18-th century boulevard. Doubles from $210 (low season); 011-351-213-218-200; heritage.pt. On the Alentejo coast, Herdade do Touril de Baixo is made up of farmhouses built around a saltwater pool, with private access to a stunning beach. Doubles from $109 (low season); 011-351-283-950-080; touril.pt.

Nice surprise: Feel the thrill of catching your first wave where some of the world's pro surfers play. In summer, the breaks can be gentle enough to make anyone feel like a champion, especially at the wide beaches of Carrapateira and Arrifana, home to surf schools and private instructors. The accomplishments is sure to stroke your - er - appetite.

3. BELIZE
Belize is a true sleeper: a small country that packs a big punch. It has jungles. It has Mayan ruins. It has coral reefs that put other islands' snorkeling to shame. It has quiet white-sand beaches. And it costs so much less than more established Caribbean destinations that you'll feel like the smartest honeymooners around.

Perfect Itinerary: Start in the jungles in the west of the country near the Macal River. You can canoe and swim, or go on horseback rides to Mayan ruins and hikes in the rain forest with the resort's guides. From the mountains, travel to Ambergris Caye, a tropical gem just off the coast, set in brilliant Caribbean waters. Your days will be spent snorkeling among giant sea turtles and stingrays.

Where to stay:
The Chaa Creek eco-resort is set in a 365-acre nature reserve that's truly unspoiled. Book a thatched-roof villa with tiled floors and antique Guatemalan furniture, and you can hang out on the screened porch and breathe in the perfume of the tropical flowers. Best of all, the darkness makes the sparkling Milky Way so vivid, it's like seeing it for the first time. Doubles from $160, including breakfast (low season); 877-709-8708; chaacreek.com.

On Ambergris Caye, check into the 42-room Victoria House, a colorful resort on a wide beach. Rooms on the second floor have plantation-style shutters and balconies with views of the ocean. The pool is surprisingly stylish, an aqua-tiled beauty with lounge chairs that sit right in the water. Doubles from $163 (low season); 800-247-5159; victoria-house.com.

Nice surprise: For an exciting day trip, hop a boat to the Maruba Resort Jungle Spa on the mainland for a couples' Mood Mud treatment. You'll strip naked, save for a few modesty-providing hibiscus flower blossoms, and be paintedin different-colored muds with palm fronds.

4. VIETNAM

Put aside your Hollywood images of Vietnam: this is a small, elegant country with a European influence and the infectious energy of youth (more than half of its population is under 25 years old). Not only will you find French Colonial architecture, delicate food, and tempting shopping, you'll also be able to splurge in this emerging economy. And, despite its turbulent past, the Vietnamese could teach usall a lesson in forgiveness - the people harbor no bad feelings toward North, South, or foreigners.

Perfect itinerary: Start in Hanoi, a northern outpost that feels like a city of lovers: couples promenade along the walkways around central Hoan Kiem Lake, stopping for espresso on the riverboat location of Highlands Coffee (Vietnam's answer to Starbucks), or renting swan-shaped paddle boats for two. Browse in the shops on Nha Tho Street, admiring the dazzling, inexpensive lacquered housewares and silk; shopkeepers rely on charm instead of hard sell.

To truly understand Vietnam, you must get out of the capital. Fly into Da Nang to visit the historic port city of Hoi An, where you can sample an authentic bowl of pho - noodles in beef broth - and bask in the sun. The country's best beach, My Khe, is also here, along with access to the up and coming Cham Islands. Take a boat out for a day trip to swim and wander around the quaint fishing village.

Where to stay: Retreat to Hanoi's Inter-Continental Hanoi Westlake, a glamorous new "floating" hotel located in the middle of West Lake. Each room has a balcony, and many overlook the torch-lit pool. Doubles from $234 (low season); 888-424-6835; ichotelsgroup.com.

The Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa has 105 rooms, all with either river or sea views. But don't let the feel of a traditional village fool you - this is one of the toniest resort in the Hoi An area. (The vintage Renault bus that shuttles guests from the airport to the hotel is a nice touch). It's easy to relax here: Book a spa treatment, and streat out on Cua Dai, a white sand beach that's exclusive to hotel guests. Doubles from $190, including breakfast (low season); 011-84-927-040; victoriahotels-asia.com.

Nice surprise: Consider adding a one night trip from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay, home to 1,600 limesone islands and floating villages. Sail overnight on the Emeraude, a modern 38-room vessel designed to resemble a 1910 French Colonial riverboat. Doubles from $375 (year-round), including all meals; 011-84-4-934-0888; emeraude-cruises.com.

5. ARGENTINA
Argentina ma be nowhere near Europe, yet for Americans seeking a taste of Continental cafe life and sophisticated culture, it's a worthy substitute. Here, in a land of idyllic vineyards, country estates, glacial spires, and buzzing urban centers, Spanish, Italian, and indigenous cultures have melted into something unique. The Argentine heartbeat thumps in Buenos Aires, a cosmopolitan city of French architecture and Latin American exuberance, where lovers dawdle on cracked sidewalks, order bife de chorizo and bottles of malbec at bafflingly cheap prices, and dance until daybreak.

Perfect itinerary: Argentina is vast, but you can get a taste of the toporaphical smorgasbord in a week. Fly into Buenos Aires for four days of tangoing at Confiteria Ideal, discovering art galleries in the winding streets of the San Telmo neighborhood, and the inhaling dulce de leche ice cream at the ubiquitous chain Freddo. Your next adventure is two days in Iguazu Falls, a touristy yet jaw-dropping system of waterfalls on national parkland along the Brazilian border. Once back in the capital, take a boa to the tropical islands of the Parana Delta for a quiet and relaxing overnight.

Where to stay: With its jasmine-scented garden and sapphire pool, Home Hotel proves a stylish sanctuary from the bustle of the Palermo neighborhood. The 19 units are chic as can be - picture Chilean wool rugs, vintage Scandinavian furniture, and hand-printed wallpaper. Doubles from $125, including breakfast (year-round); 011-54-11-4778-1008; homebuenosaires.com. The Sheraton Iguazu Resort & Spa isn't just the nicest resort by the falls - it's the only one (which accounts for the price, a rare non-bargain in this otherwise affordable land). Fortunately it's modern and has amenities - like an Internet cafe, a gym, and tennis courts - that you wouldn't expect to find in the jungle. Doubles from $319 (low season); 800-325-3535; starwoodhotels.com. An airy lodge along the banks of the delta, Rumbo 90 Delta Lodge & Spa offers canoeing and hiking along with less hardscrabble activities like massages. Doubles from $208, including breakfast and dinner (low season); 011-54-9-115843-9454; rumbo90.com.ar.

Nice surprise: A burgeoning class of chic Argentinean designers using amazing native materials - buttery leather, rich suede - makes Buenos Aires a Shangri-La for the fashion-forward shopper. Pick out pastel tops with koi-inspired pritns at Maria Cher or exquisite handbags from Anahi M.

6. HUNGARY
The euro may be formidable, but the feeble forint? Not so much. Think of Budapest as Europe on sale: incredible architecture, glittering lights to rival those in Paris, and winding side streets with dark coffee shops that are perfect for film noir-style rendezvous. Hungary is also home to a pastoral countryside, villages of red-tiled roofs, and thermal springs - all blending old-world charm with timeless beauty.

Perfect itinerary: Start in the split city of Budapest, which is made up of the town of Buda and the town of Pest, linked across the river by a bridge.

Spend a few days here: Stroll the cobblestone streets of Buda's Castle District and simmer in the wave pool at the beloved Gellert Baths, then cross the Chain Bridge to artsy Pest. Jaunts down Andrassy Avenue - dubbed the Champs-Elysees of Central Europe - may end with shopping in the boutiques of Kiraly Street, followed by a toast with glasses of palinka, the local plum brandy, at a sun-soaked sidewalk cafe.

Had enough city life? The poetic village of Szentendre is worth a day trip, but you'll need more time for the spa-lined shores of Lake Balaton, a vineyard region located an hour from Budapest by train. Once there, waterski in the lake, and soak a while in Lake Heviz's slightly radioactive (in a good way!) medicinal mud.

Where to stay: Located on the Pest side, the Atrium Hotel, with its modern pastel decor and low-slung furniture, may seem more Scandinavian than Hungarian, but it keeps you within moseying distance of the ornate Opera House. Plus, the flat screen TVs, WiFi, and scrumptious breakfast buffets (kielbasa sausages and flaky crescent pastries called kifli) - would be welcome anywhere. Doubles from $203 (low season); 011-36-1299-0777; atriumhotelbudapest.com. Horseback riding, oil painting, and wine tasting are part of the allure of the Kali Art Inn, a countryside hotel near Lake Balaton that's situated among the wild lavender and rosemary of the Kali Basin nature preserve. Doubles from $135 (low season); 011-36-8770-6090; kaliartinn.com.

Nice surprise: Find an outdoor perch at Szimpla Kert, a quirky two-story garden in Pest that teems with international crowds downing frothy drafts of Dreher beer as they take in the avant-garde art installations and live music.

7. CHILE
Sandwiched between the Pacific and the lofty, chiseled Andes, this long, narrow country (2,700 miles in length and a mere 110 miles at her widest) boasts an unbelievably varied landscape. Think stark desert, celestial lakes, dense forests, and even a penguin-populated slice of Antarctica. Best of all, post-Pinochet Chile is one of the most secure countries in the region and those nonstop overnight flights from the US mean you arrive early in the morning, so jet lag is not an issue.

Perfect itinerary:
You can see plenty of Chile in a week - especially if you don't dawdle in the city. Fly into Santiago for a quick hit of urban buzz. This is Latin America, after all, so you can expect an exciting music scene (in this case, emerging rock bands), vibrant coffeehouses that play host to impromptu concerts, and traditional dancing - here, the cueca. Rest from your flight for a night, and sample the empanadas and pastel de choclo, a beef-and chicken pie topped with sweet corn and baked in a clay pot. Then get out of town and move on to Patagonia's virgin peaks and glaciers. The perfect home base for exploring the area is the town of Puerto Natales, right outside Torres del Paine National Park. Check out the steppes and fjords - by foot, horseback, kayak, mountain bike, or 4x4. Thanks to a recent influx of young transplants from Santiago and beyond, this burgeoning port is also cosmopolitan - so don't worry if you don't speak Spanish.

Where to stay: Among the many hotels in Santiago's leafy, pedestrian-friendly, restaurant-packed neighborhood of El Golf, the year-old Atton El Bosque wins for its slic, chick design, and critically acclaimed eatery. Doubles from $170 (year-round); 011-56-2-422-7979; atton.cl. Down south, stay at Altiplanico Sur, a rustic, low-lying, 22-room gem of a hotel with a thatched roof, beamed ceilings, and stucco walls, all tucked into a hillside overlooking the Ultima Esperanza Bay. Doubles from $200, including breakfast (year-round); 011-56-61-412-525; altiplanico.cl.

Nice surprise: Santiago is situated in the middle of South America's most famous wine country, so you'll want to take a day trip when you return to the city for your flight home. Contact Santiago Adventures for tour options, or rent a car and go on your own.

8. CROATIA
This former Yugoslavian republic hums with the excitement of a country on an upswing. You'll find the style of Greece and Italy - think fresh seafood and local wines, along with Adriatic seascapes - all paid for in the fiscally friendly kuna.

Perfect itinerary: Ten days is the ideal amount of time for an introduction to several regions. Most flights connect through a European hub, like London, and land in the capital, Zagreb, a lively, walkable city in the center of the country. Spend two days admiring Zagreb's stately Viennese facades, then rent a car and head to the seaside hub of Split. The drive takes all morning, and you can break it up with a hike around the gorgeous Plitvice Lakes. In Split, set aside a morning to check out the 4th-century Diocletian's Palace, and an entire day to ferry out to Hvar Island, where you can explore the shady coves by kayak.

Then drive 200 miles down the photogenic E65 (another curve, another water view) to Dubrovnik, where the restored Old Town is filled with cafes and flanked by medievel walls that everyone walks atop at sunset. To save time, return your car here and book an inexpensive regional flight back to Zagreb for the longer haul home.

Where to stay: It's amazing how much style the kuna can buy. At the Regent Esplanade Zagreb, the earth-toned rooms are draped in hefty silks and striped damasks, and the beds will make jet lag a distant memory. Doubles from $245 (low season); 800-545-4000; regenthotels.com. With an infinity pool, a spa modeled after a Roman bath, and sleek rooms, the year old Le Meridien Lav, outside Split, looks more like a splurge than the steal it is. Doubles from $181, including breakfast (low season); 800-543-4300; starwoodhotels.com. Guest rooms feel old-school at Dubrovnik's Grand Villa Argentina, thanks to their rounded windows and ornate floral design schemes. The spa, pool and terraced gardens that meander down to a jumping-off point for the Adriatic are pure luxury. It's only a five-minute walk to the lively Old Town, but far enough away to offer a panorama of those iconic orange-tiled roofs - and shield you from the battle cries of revelers who've had too many plum brandies. Doubles from $280 (low season); 011-385-20-440-555; gva.hr.

Nice surprise: On the way from Split, stop for lunch in the village of Mali Ston, where locals have been harvesting briny mussels and oysters for centuries. At the family-run Vila Koruna, tables overlook the bay that supplies much of the menu's bounty.

9. BALI
This tropical hot spot didn't need a best seller like Eat, Pray, Love to make it popular. For the last century, the affordable, Delaware-size Indonesian island has bewitched travelers with gorgeous scenery and culture. You, too, will be seduced by the terraced rice paddies, broad beaches, and imposing volcano craters ringed by feathery clouds.

Perfect itinerary: There's no denying it: to reach Bali, you'll be airborne for at least 18 hours. So anything shorter than a 12-day stay would be, in our minds, madness. After landing at Denpasar, in South Bali, home to the country's only airport, recharge your travel-weary selves on the beach at Jimbaran (You can see - but not hear - planes alighting). Spend the next four days in the mountain village of Ubud, where you'll find temples and art galleries. Finish in East Bali: The pace slows, you'll be within reach of the ocean and mountains, and the tourists are few and far between.

Where to stay: With an oceanside salt-water pool overlooking Jimbaran Bay, and soothingly sophisticated rooms with carved teak furniture, the Ritz-Carlton, Bali Resort & Spa is a fitting first stop. Doubles from $245 (low season); 800-241-3333; ritz-carlton.com. The Komaneka Monkey Forest hotel in Ubud has decor that locates you firmly in Southeast Asia (pine ceilings, batiks), the location is central but oasis-like, and prices are low (pool villas for $300!). But our favorite thing here is lounging in the tub watching ducks waddle across the neighboring rice paddy. Doubles from $200 (year-round); 011-62-361-976-090; komaneka.com. The Alila Manggis hotel, in East Bali, is stylish, not sumptuous, but guests don't mind: they're too busy stretching out on their terrace's daybed or snacking on the chef's organic eats, including a nori-wrapped salmon that could inspire poetry. Doubles from $210, including breakfast (low season); 800-337-4685; alilahotels.com.

Nice surprise: Meet a real-life medicine man. Many spas offer sessions with Balinese healers who use a combination of stretching, breathing and massage to alleviate post-wedding stress.

10. HONDURAS
Honduras is full of surprises, not least of which are the idyllic islands just off its Carribean coastline - picture white sand, blue water, and palm trees lining the shore - and a coral reef that is truly untouched. On land, the mountains are home to spider monkeys, blue butterflies, and brilliantly colorful tropical birds.

Perfect itinerary: Start on Roatan, the largest of the three Bay Islands. There are direct flights from several US cities, so Roatan has become increasingly accessible while retaining its charm. Then head to the mainland via ferry to Pico Bonito National Park for hikes up to the park's untrammeled rivers, where your guide will leave you to swim blissfully in a pool beneath a double waterfall - all by yourselves. The only thing more magical than the pool's crystal-clear water? The rainbow-colored mist that hangs suspended above it.

Where to stay: On Roatan, make your base Barefoot Cay, a small resort on its own small isle off the south shore. Stay in a one-bedroom villa that's brimming with tropical chic: bright cantaloupe- and hibiscus-colored pillows, a striking foil for the stark whites and grays of the bed and floor tiles. Each guest gets a key to lockers stuffed with snorkel gear that you can borrow for the day (or the week), or you can just spend your time swining in the hammocks placed strategically around the resort. Doubles from $120 (low season); 866-246-3706; barefootcay.com.

The lodge at Pico Bonito is inside Pico Bonito National Park, where the hotel's casitas are hidden by lush green foliage. We guarantee that the veranda's oversize hammock will become your favorite spot to take in the wild flora and fauna. Doubles from $180, including breakfast (low season); 888-428-0221; picobonito.com.

Nice surprise: For a fun daytime activity, head to Roatan's north side. There, you an hop a seaplane for an amazing bird's eye view of the island.

HONEYMOON MONEY MATTER TIPS

It's not what you buy on your trip, it's how you buy it that matters - read on for simple ways to get the most for each dollar when you're traveling overseas.

CHOOSE YOUR CREDIT CARD CAREFULLY Whenever possible, use plastic to pay for hotels and meals. It gets you the best exchange rate, since banks can negotiate better rates than individuals. Before you leave home, call your credit card companies and ask how much extra they charge for exchanges and transactions abroad - a difference between two and five percent can add up fast.

USE THE RIGHT CARD AT THE RIGHT TIME You'll want to have a little cash on hand for incidentals, and you'll want to use your debit card to get it. Overseas, the fees stay lowest if you use your debit card for cash withdrawals and credit cards for purchases and not the other way around (cash advances on a credit card often carry a whopping five percent fee).

ASK ABOUT INSURANCE Many credit cards automatically include car-rental coverage. If you're staying in a city, skip the car entirely and rely on mass transit, which also gives you an up-close view of your locale.

GET CASH BEFORE ARRIVING Exchange at your home country. Don't hit the ATM at the airport as the exchange rates can be ridiculously high. They know most tourists need to exchange their dollars when they arrive, and charge exorbitant rates for it.

LEAVE THE CHECKS AT HOME Traveler's checks are so '80s. These days, you often need to go to a bank to exchange them, so don't bother.

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